In the quiet Swiss town of Grenchen, a 287-year-old phoenix has risen from the ashes. Favre Leuba, once the titan of Swiss watchmaking, are stirring back to life with a collection that’s equal parts homage and revolution. The Favre Leuba Chief collection, spearheading this resurrection, isn’t just a new line of watches—it’s a statement of intent, a bridge between the brand’s storied past and their ambitious future.
A Tale Of Two Chiefs
The Chief collection arrives as a duo: the Chief Chronograph and the Chief Date. Both share a design language that speaks in the bold, geometric style of the 1970s, yet with an accent that’s unmistakably modern.
Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph: A Study In Contrasts
The Chief Chronograph, at 41mm, commands attention on the wrist. Its cushion case, a nod to the era that inspired it, presents a distinctive silhouette. The case design combines brushed and polished surfaces, creating an interplay of light and shadow that enhances its visual appeal. The dial is where the Chief Chronograph truly shines—literally. Available in blue, ice blue, or black, its sunburst finish plays with light in captivating ways. The bi-compax layout, with sub-dials at three and nine o’clock, maintains balance and readability. A tachymeter scale on the inner flange adds functionality without cluttering the overall design. Applied indices and hands, featuring brushed and sandblasted finishes, add depth and texture. They’re filled with Super-LumiNova, ensuring that time-telling doesn’t stop when the lights go down.
Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph: Under The Hood
Flip the watch over, and the L113 chronograph movement steals the show. It features blued screws, Côtes de Genève stripes, and a blued column wheel that will excite watch enthusiasts. The 60-hour power reserve is a practical touch for those who like to switch up their wrist game over the weekend.
Favre Leuba Chief Date: Simplicity With A Twist
The Chief Date, while cut from the same cloth as its chronograph sibling, has its own distinct personality. At 40mm and 10.8mm thick, it presents a slightly more compact profile on the wrist. The dial is where the Chief Date truly distinguishes itself. A pattern of high-relief hourglasses—a clever nod to Favre Leuba’s logo—creates a mesmerising texture. Available in green, blue, or black, each dial features an offset sunray finish that adds an extra dimension to the already intricate surface.
Wearability: The True Test
Both models come with the option of a steel bracelet or a rubber strap. The bracelet, with its alternating brushed and polished surfaces, integrates with the case—a detail that contributes significantly to the watch’s overall appeal. The steel bracelet for the Chief Chronograph and the Chief Date features a distinctive H-shaped link design. Both bracelets are equipped with a secure deployant clasp. The rubber strap option, available for both models, offers a sportier look and enhanced comfort for the wearer.
The Date’s Heart
At the core of the Chief Date beats the La Joux-Perret G100 movement. With a 68-hour power reserve, it’s a workhorse that doesn’t skimp on the aesthetics. Diamond-cut bevels, blued screws, and Geneva stripes visible through the sapphire caseback demonstrate Favre Leuba’s attention to detail in their comeback.
More Than Just A Comeback
The Chief collection strikes a balance between revival and reinvention. These aren’t mere reissues of vintage models, nor are they completely divorced from Favre Leuba’s heritage. Instead, they occupy that sweet spot where past and present converge, creating something that feels both familiar and fresh. This balance is evident in the technical specifications as well. Both watches boast modern amenities like scratch-resistant sapphire crystals and impressive water resistance of 100m for both models. These features ensure that the Chief collection is not just about looks, but also about practical, everyday wearability.
It’s worth noting that Favre Leuba’s history stretches back to 1737, making it one of the oldest Swiss watch brands. The company has a rich legacy of innovation, including the creation of the world’s first mechanical wristwatch equipped with an aneroid barometer in 1962. This heritage of pushing boundaries seems to mould the Chief collection, which manages to honour tradition while embracing contemporary watchmaking techniques.
